Climbing Info > Canyons of the Bitterroot
Kootenai Creek Canyon |
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This is one of the more popular climbing destinations in the Bitterroot, and for good reason. It has climbs of all difficulties from easy 5th-class scrambles to 5.13+ clip ups. Also, climbing is located on both sides of the creek so you can hit the sunny north side in fall/winter/spring and the shady south side in summer. The climbing is a quick hike in from the trailhead, so you can most likely be climbing from Missoula in less than an hour. More info can be found in the Rock Climbing Montana Falcon Guide.
Pleasant Surprise 5.8
(photo: Sam Johnson on Venus deMilo) |
Bass Creek Canyon |
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Bass Creek is the first climbable drainage heading south into the Bitterroots. The climbing found there is an approximately 5-10 minute hike and the wall will be on your right/north. The main buttress is small and short, but the climbs are good, and you probably won’t see anyone else here. A small rack and draws are all you need.
(Photo: Unknown) |
Big Creek Canyon/ McCalla Ridge |
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The climbing here is of superb quality. It's a canyon you must check out to appreciate. A generally small crag, one must drive up the mountain before getting to the pull off. Once you find the crag, you will see many sport climbs with a few gear lines. The unique thing about this area is the number of incuts on the wall. If you like crimpers, come here.
(Photo: Unknown) |
Bear Creek Canyon |
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Bear Creek Canyon is full of potential. A few lines have been climbed in the canyon, but dozens more exist. Primarily, this is a great ice climbing destination when the temps get really cold.
(photo: Ondi Crino on sun-baked WI4) |
Fred Burr Canyon |
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There's a fair amount of rock in this canyon waiting to be climbed. A number of ascents were put up in the past, but lately it's been forgotten. The canyon includes a number of aid lines and multi-pitch climbs. |
Sheafman Creek Canyon |
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Sort of a hanging valley in the Bitterroot, the drainage sits higher than most. Access may be an issue if the road is closed, but normally one drives up the mountain to a trailhead around 5000 ft. elev. This makes the elevation gain to the back of the canyon not so steep. What lies in the back of Sheafman Creek is Castle Crag. Castle Crag is about 600-700 foot tall buttress with a right facing corner in it. It looks spectacular. The line is steep and dirty in some spots but a good undertaking. It probably goes at 5.11. Make a weekend trip out of it, and bring your fly rod.
(Photo: Castle Crag) |
Mill Creek Canyon |
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This area is located just north of Hamilton. Mill Creek is a unique setting to the Bitterroot. Instead of the spires one is used to seeing in the Bitterroot, Mill creek has enormous walls. A one-mile hike will get you to the base of the main wall complex. From there it is a grunt up to the base of the walls, but if you don’t mind getting in a good hike and climbing where no one else is, this is the place for you. You will see No Sweat Arête as the obvious arête feature. This is your standard 5.7/8/9 trad climb up the tower like feature. Many variations exist. Left of this you will see the Gray wall area. Most of the climbing is located on these walls. Long routes up bullet grey rock get you high off the deck quick. Also, multipitch lines exist which few do like Ozzie’s Wall, located about four miles in. More info can be found in Rock Climbing Montana Falcon Guide.
Must Do’s: No Sweat Arête 5.7
(photo: Dean Towarnicki on Fixin' the Turnpike) |
Blodgett Canyon |
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Another popular canyon, Blodgett is located just west of Hamilton. This is the little Yosemite of the Bitterroot. One can do single pitch “sport” lines on the parking lot wall or climb one of the many 1000-foot features. As one looks into the canyon, one will see from near to far; The Prow, The Drip, Blackfoot Dome, Nez Perce, Shoshone, and Flathead. Parking lot wall is a little east as you are looking north in the parking lot. More info can be found in the Rock Climbing Montana Falcon Guide.
Must Do’s: Leftovers (both pitches) 5.11a/b (P-Lot)
(Photo: Matt Pagel on South Face of Shoshone) |
Roaring Lion Creek Canyon |
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A beautiful canyon marked by the extremely straight 10-mile ridge along its north side. Roaring Lion is certainly not a cragging destination but some exciting climbs can be found here. A 30-minute hike will get you to the base of the Thin Red Line Buttress. The main route is the Thin Red Line which puts you on the south face of the fin that’s 200 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Crack Envy on its west side is also an amazing splitter 2-pitch line. About 4 miles in lies the Qwalqn Wall. A long and steep approach puts you at the base of this wall. So far, heady aid is the only way up its south face: it's still waiting for the first free ascent.
Must Do’s: The Thin Red Line 5.11+
(Photo: 7 Steps to Heaven, Qwalqn) |
Lost Horse Canyon |
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Another popular climbing destination of the Bitterroot, Lost Horse has it all. This is one of the few drainages that has a wealth of bouldering. It is all easily accessible and one can often find partners to share a pad with. As well as having lots of good bouldering, Lost Horse is also known for its outstanding cracks. The main buttress has tons of lines in all levels of difficulty. If you are starting to trad climb, come here. More info can be found in: Lost Horse Canyon Guide Book by Joe Josephon by First Ascent Press.
Routes: Power To the People 5.7 PBR Power V6 The Rail V4
(Photo: Ian Caroppoli on The Rail) |
Trapper Creek Canyon |
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Home to the highest peak in the Bitterroot, this is the main attraction to the area. The Cowboy Traverse is also something often done which is a traverse from Trapper Peak to North Trapper Peak. The word is that it goes at 5.6.
(Photo: Trapper Peak) |
Lolo Pass |
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If one would say Blodgett Canyon is the Yosemite of the Bitterroot then Lolo is the J-tree. Granite domes rise from the trees of Lolo Pass. Here, one can find a ton of bouldering, and domes sometimes reaching 200 feet tall. Be warned, some of these are hidden, bush whacking will occur, and you won’t always find it the first time, but if you are persistent enough you will be rewarded. More info can be found in Rock Climbing Montana Falcon Guide.
Must Do’s: Crystal Seeker 5.6 (Gamma)
(Photo: Dave on Crystal Seeker) |
The following areas aren't in the Bitterroot, but they're important to us as well! |
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| Rattler Gulch | |
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Rattler is located east of Missoula by Drummond. It's a limestone crag with lots of cool pockets and thin face moves. There's practically no approach and it doesn't get a lot of sun. Be careful to respect private property since access cuts across a ranch. There's a fair amount of room for development here.
Must Do's: The Canon 5.11c Snake Eye 5.8 Shredder 5.10b
(Photo: unknown) |
| Mulkey Gulch | |
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Mulkey is just west of Rattler and offers some longer climbs and similar sport climbing. Mulkey tower is a 2-3 pitch buttress that's pretty harmless. The climbs are mostly in the sun and are great for late afternoon. Many of these climbs are mixed, so be careful and check the guidebook.
Must Do's: The Domino 5.10a Mulkey Marathon 5.11a/b
(Photo: DeAnna Mylander getting a baja belay on the Domino) |
| Alberton Rest Stop | |
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Alberton Rest Stop is a unique climbing destination on the shores of the Clark Fork River 30 miles west of Missoula. There are a number of long easy climbs on the west face that are perfect for beginners and a half-dozen strenuous climbs on the north face. There's a wonderful swimming hole and even a hard route over the water on the southeast side. Bring your fishing pole and beer for this lazy afternoon hang-out.
(Photo: various climbs on the north face) |
Other Canyons to with Climbing to check out: Rock Creek Canyon / Lake Como Sawtooth Canyon Tin Cup Creek Canyon Chaffin Creek Canyon |
